Huck embroidery is a surface stitch form of embroidery most popular in the early to mid 20th century. It is also known as Swedish weaving, although it is not weaving in the true sense.

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The name ‘Huck’ comes from the fabric called huck fabric, and is unique to this form of embroidery.
The front of the fabric has rows of pairs of thread that stand up from the back, called ‘floats’.
Huck stitch takes the thread underneath these floats in a series of geometric patterns.
The stitching only appears on the front of the fabric, and never pierces through the fabric to the back.

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Huck embroidery was most fashionable in the early 20th century, with the publishing of Mildred Krieg’s “Huck Travel Patterns 1936-1950”. (It is thought to have declined with the rise in dishwashers, where there was less need for dishtowels - a popular Huck project).  However, it is thought that Huck embroidery originated in the 1600s in northern Germany/Scandinavia (hence the term ‘Swedish weaving’)

Other fabric can be used, such as monk’s cloth or aida, but these may produce slightly different results.

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There are special Huck needles that are longer and have a slight tilt at a blunt end – this means that they don’t catch the fabric as they pass underneath the floats, and you can pass the needle under several pairs of floats at a time.

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Huck embroidery is generally used on large items such as afghans – but also for towels, table runners, place mats, wall hangings, bedding etc.

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You can make your Huck embroidery as colourful as you like. Groups of stitches in the same colour are often used for effect.
‘Stitches’ aren’t stitches in a traditional sense, but generally rows from one side of the fabric to the other. There are patterns that are free-standing, but most patterns take you from one side of the fabric to the other.

The threads used depend on the project. However, typically, a thicker thread such as a perle or all 6 stands of stranded cotton are used.

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To stitch huck embroidery, you start in the middle of the fabric – you have to estimate the amount of thread you will need for each row. This is easier if all you’re doing is stitching from one end to the other. (If you’re a beginner, this is where I suggest you start). As patterns become more complex, and start reaching up and below the starting row, you have to estimate how much thread you’ll need – if you’re unsure choose more rather than less, erring on the side of caution.

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Stitch under the floats in the middle of your row, and centre your thread.
You then stitch to one side of the fabric. Leave a tail/end of about 1-2 inches.
You return to the middle, rethread, and stitch to the opposite end – you may find it easier to turn your work around to do this. Again, leave a tail/end of about 1-2 inches.

As patterns progress in difficulty, they start to utilise floats above and below the initial row. Patterns can include loops and diagonal lines.

The floats are staggered, row on row – so rather than one row’s floats being directly above the other, they zig zag.